Monday, March 22, 2010

Book review: "City of Djinns"

Spring has sprung, but in this part of North America you'll never lost money betting on snow in April. So before you break out the BBQ and patio furniture, let me recommend a good book to curl up with in front of the fire.

William Dalrymple was born and raised in Scotland. Somewhere along the line, perhaps at Cambridge, he developed a fascination with Asia in general and India in particular which looks like lasting a lifetime. He has written five books (that I know of) on the subject, of which I have read one and a half, so far.

The one I borrowed from the library yesterday and am already half-way through is City of Djinns, an account of a year spent in Delhi. Having visited Delhi, all too briefly, a couple of years after Dalrymple was there, I must say that I wish I'd read his book before I went.

Dalrymple appears to have a strong interest in architecture as well as history, and readers of City of Djinns will learn lots about both. But the entertainment value of the book cannot be praised enough.

You'll meet Sir David Ochterlony, the British resident who "went native" and established a harem of several wives and concubines, fathering countless children along the way. He might be called the Father of Anglo-India! Then there's Balvinder Singh, the Dalrymples' favourite taxi driver, with a keen eye for "Delhi womens with breasts like mangoes".

And Mr. Puri, the landlady's husband, who kept pursuing Olivia Dalrymple around the house, aided by his tin Zimmer frame. Best of all (?), you'll meet the Haxby sisters, two of the few remaining British residents of Simla, who are convinced that Jewish prostitutes are coming down their chimney and up through their floorboards at night to poison them.

On a more serious -- in fact depressing -- note, you'll read what happened to Delhi during and as a result of the Partition of India in 1947. Readers in Greater Vancouver and Greater Toronto will find out why their Hindu, Muslim and Sikh neighbours hate each other.

All in all, City of Djinns is a great read. I also highly recommend Dalrymple's first book -- the first one I read -- In Xanadu. If we get an early spell of warm weather you can take either of them to the beach!

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